The Rab Positron Jacket is the perfect technical mountaineering and expedition jacket for use up to 6000M. It also makes an ideal UK winter jacket in cold and wet conditions for winter mountaineering or just an everyday super warm coat. It is stuffed with the highest quality 800FP R.D.S certified European Goose Down and features a Pertex Endurance outer fabric to keep out all but the worst of the weather. What reallly sets this superb jacket apart from the competition is how Rab have cleverly zoned the insulation across your body to provide maximum warmth and minimal bulk.
Where you need the warmth the most, across the torso, back and hood, Rab have constructed the Positron using box wall construction. This method creates actual "box" like chambers for the down to fully loft (fluff up) so that it can maximise the insualting properties of all those beautiful down clusters. Where you need less insulation and more freedom of movement, down the sides and arms, Rab have used a simple stitch through construction. Whilst still effective at insulating it does reduce bulk and allows for greater flexibility and breathability. To ensure that all that lovely down, 275g in a size large, stays dry you get a reliable Pertex Endurance outer shell. Whilst not 100% waterproof, due to the untaped seams, this highly water resistant fabric will keep rain and snow at bay, so you'll only need your shell jacket if it is really wet and grotty. As well as the effective water resistant fabric, Rab have used Hydrophobic down in the Positron (and all their other down jackets), basically each and every cluster of down is treated with special Nikwax products to make them perform better in damp conditions. Although Hydrophobic down is not waterproof it dries much faster, absorbs less water and retains loft far better than untreated down.
To complete the overall performance package you get a helmet compatible hood with face baffle wired peak, highly water resistant YKK VISLON Aquaguard zips on the main zip and the two hand pockets and there's also a secure zipped internal pocket. At the wrists the adjustable hook and loop tabs help to keep in the warmth a provide a snug seal around gloves and mitts and the hem drawcord stops wind and spindrift creeping up inside.
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Pertex Endurance outer fabric
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100% Nylon ripstop inner
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800FP European Goose Down (275g/10oz in Size L)
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Rab® fluorocarbon free Hydrophobic Down
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Box-wall construction on torso, back and hood Stitch-through construction on sides and arms
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Helmet-compatible hood with face baffle and polymer peak
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YKK VISLON AquaGuard 2-way front zip with insulated baffle
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2 YKK VISLON AquaGuard hand pockets
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1 YKK zipped internal security pocket
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Velcro adjustable cuffs
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Hem drawcord
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Stuff sack
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Fit: Regular
How to wash your down products
Having spent years talking to people about down products, whether that’s a jacket, sleeping bag or even a pair of slippers, very few have had the confidence to go ahead and wash the product on their own, especially when they have just spent an arm and a leg on it. This small guide is here to explain that it’s not as daunting and utterly terrifying as it first appears.
Step one: Before you even get near that washing machine, wipe off any excess mud or dirt that may be lingering on the surface of the jacket, as this will clog up the washing machine, eventually rendering it useless.
We recommend the use of Nikwax Down Wash Direct for down products as it’s one hundred percent environmentally friendly and will wash and re-proof the garment without the use of bleach or any other nasty chemicals. What household washing agents can (and often do) is remove the water repellent coating on the fabric of the jacket, whilst also damaging the delicate array of feathers inside.
Step two: We’ll assume in this instance that you’ve been washing other products prior to your down jacket and have used a bleach based detergent. Therefore it’s a good idea to run the washing machine for half an hour or so without anything inside to rinse it clean before adding the Nikwax or putting the jacket in. Also, don’t forget to remove the detergent drawer to give it a wash inside, outside and behind, as detergent can clog up and still enter the washing machine if not cleaned out thoroughly. This ensures that any remnants of detergent are removed and that the Nikwax products will work effectively.
Step three: Set the washing machine to a cold wash (check the garments care label, most tend to be around 30°C) and as delicate as possible. Most washing machines have a “wool” cycle which is ideal.
Step four: If using Nikwax Down Wash Direct, place 100ml in either the tray or directly into the washing machine inside a small pot/ball. If you choose to use another washing product, place the appropriate amount in the machine in the same way.
Step five: Set the washing machine to run on a slow cycle, allowing plenty of time for the jacket to soak up the cleaning/re-proofing product. Most washing machines will have a pre-set time for different washing cycles.
When the cycle has finished be prepared for a shock, your precious bit of kit will come out looking like a soggy ball of material. But don’t worry, you haven’t ruined it, it’s just that all that fluffy down insulation has become water logged and has clumped together. The trick is to now get all that down nice and dry to reinstate its superb insulating properties. Simply hanging it up in a warm place will not work that well. It will take days to properly dry and you will have to constantly break up the clumps to get it thoroughly dry. The best way is to use a tumble dryer; either a domestic one for smaller items or a commercial drier for sleeping bags.
Step six: Pop the garment into the dryer and make sure to select a low heat; a high heat runs the risk of melting seams and fabrics within the garment. It sounds weird, but shove a few tennis balls into the drier with the garment; the tennis balls will bounce around and help to break up the clumps of down. Every 20 minutes, pull the jacket out of the dryer and lie the jacket down on a table. Run your hands over the jacket until you find a 'clump' or ball of down; tease apart this down clump and spread it evenly into the baffle. Once you're confident you've pulled apart every clump to the best of your ability, stick it back in for another 20 minutes. Keep repeating this until there are no more clumps left.
Step seven: When the cycle has finished and you are sure that you have got the garment as dry as possible, hang it up in a warm dry place, an airing cupboard is ideal, for 24 hours. This drives out the last of any dampness and allows the down to loft fully. Take it out and give it a good shake and, hey presto, it’ll be as good as new.