What is the Litetrek II?
Aimed at those tackling technical mountainous terrain with a weight limit, this two person tent is ideal for a range of trekking in the U.K and beyond. Three season rated and wind-tunnel tested up to 56mph, it's perfect for the milder months of the year without sacrificing large amounts of durability.
What is it made of?
The flysheet is made from a super tough 50D ripstop polyester with a PU coating. The ripstop weave prevents large holes developing if you happen to catch the flysheet on a sharp object, while the PU coating provides a 3000mm hydrostatic head rating. The floor features an even more durable 70D ripstop nyon with a PU coating, resulting in a hydrostatic head rating of 5000mm. Inside, a 66D ripstop polyester with mesh keeps the bugs out and provides ventilation.
How is it constructed?
The Liketrek features a fully freestanding design, meaning it can be easily pitched on surfaces which may not take pegs easily (rocks, beaches, etc); it also allows you to move the tent to an alternative pitching location without having to strike the entire tent. Steep sided walls make maximum use of the interior space. Pitching is quick and easy with just three poles in total; two which overlap the main sleeping area and one which supports the porch area. The sleeves feature a short, flat design to make it as easy as possible to slip the poles through.
What are the features?
If you're trying to cut down on your pack weight, you can ditch the inner altogether, leaving just the poles and the flysheet for minimalist camping. The porch can also be adapted depending on what you're doing — either leave it in its standard position (see main picture above) for a good mix of space and weather resistance, or unpeg it and tuck it in (see second picture) for storage when the weather is on your side and you want to increase ventilation; this also makes a good place to get changed as you've got a waterproof floor but no ceiling. For maximum porch space, the inner sleeping area can be unclipped and pushed back to reveal extra space for cooking, getting changed, map reading, etc.
Other features include a repair kit, door storage pockets, anti-catch zips, reinforced sleeves and a zipped ventilation panel which can be accessed via the inside or outside for increased airflow.
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Two person
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100% Self supporting construction
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Vestibule extension solution
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Reinforced Hypalon sleeve finishing
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Extended guy line webbing
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Cord locks
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Extendable and replaceable anchor points
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Nylon hooks for fixing the fly even in cold conditions
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Zipper with anti-catch flap
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Different door opening options
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Door Storage Pockets
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Repair set
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Footprint available
How to Care for Your Tent
We know that purchasing a tent is a big investment, that’s why we have such a wide range of options to suit different activities, weather conditions and people, allowing you to choose the perfect one for you. Taking care of your brand new tent can be the difference between heading out for an adventure in the mountains, or having to fork out for a hefty repair bill, or even worse, another replacement tent. Below are our best tips to care for your tent.
Footprint
Before even leaving the shop (or online basket) with your tent, consider a footprint. A footprint is a large water-resistant piece of material which sits underneath your tent to protect it from sharp rocks and wet ground; if this footprint gets damaged, it’s easy to replace and doesn’t cost a fortune; if your tent groundsheet gets damaged, you’ll have to spend at least twice the amount for a repair or replacement.
Don’t Abuse the Poles
The chances are your poles are made from individual aluminium sections connected by elastic; when you come to remove the poles from the tent, don’t pull them out. The best way to remove poles from their sleeve is to place the pole end against your hip and pull the fabric towards you. If you simply attempt to pull the pole out, they’ll disconnect inside, the elastic will stretch and then spring back, potentially trapping the fabric of your tent between the pole sections.
You might also be tempted to flick the poles out so that the elastic snaps them into place in a quickfire fashion. However, this is far from ideal, as if the poles don’t align when they meet, you can easily damage or weaken the end of the pole, leading to future failure which is usually on the wettest and windiest nights!
Collapse Poles From the Centre
When your poles are safely removed from the sleeve, collapse them from the centre to avoid stretching the elastic.
Stuff, Don’t Fold
You were probably told when you were in the Scouts or doing the Duke of Edinburgh Award that the best way to pack your tent away is to neatly fold it into a rectangle, the width of your storage bag, roll it around the poles and pegs and then put it all in the stuffsack. However, whilst very neat and tidy, this method of packing can create permanent creases in the fabric, weaken the waterproofing and eventually split the fabric of your tent. The best solution is to simply stuff the tent fabric into the storage bag, just like you would a sleeping bag, and pack the poles separately. Make sure to leave and end or corner at the top, so that you can easily peg it out if your next campsite is windy. The poles normally have their own stuffsack so they can be packed separately, strapped to the outside of your pack or stored inside, allowing the tent fabric to be compressed for efficient packing.
Store it Dry
Let’s assume you’ve been out with your tent and the weather has been a little on the damp side. You’ve packed your tent away when wet and now you’re back home in the warm and dry with a nice of cup of tea reflecting on your latest adventure. But what about your poor soggy tent? The worst thing you can do is to leave it packed away wet, mildew will grow and eventually rot the tent, rendering it useless. As soon as you’ve finished that cup of tea, wipe off any excess dirt and moisture with a towel, then hang the tent somewhere where it can fully air out; a nice warm spare room or a garage is perfect. Alternatively, when it stops raining, pitch the tent outside in the sunshine to dry off. Let it air for at least 24 hours and once you are sure that it is bone dry it can be packed away for storage. Note - don’t tumble dry or hang the tent over a radiator or other direct heat source.
Don’t Store in the Stuffsack
Like your sleeping bag, it’s best not to store your sleeping bag in its stuffsack unless it has to be compressed for an activity. Leave it in a large duffel bag or supermarket ‘bag for life’ in a cool, well ventilated area so it can breathe.
Avoid Tree Sap
If you’ve ever had sap on your hands, you’ll know how horrible and sticky the stuff is; it’s even harder to remove from your tent flysheet. Pitch away from trees if possible.
Don’t Leave in the Sun
The majority of tents we stock are made from nylon. Nylon is incredibly tough, lightweight and easy to care for, however it will naturally degrade if left out in harsh sunlight for extended periods of time. Try to pitch your tent in the shade or strike the tent (pack it away) during the day. Polyester tents don’t suffer from this quite as badly, but it’s still a good habit to get into.
Leave Sharp Objects Outside
Boots, cooking equipment and other sharp/abrasive objects can all be stored in the vestibule, where there is less chance of it ripping a hole in your fly or groundsheet. You may not want to pop your pet in there, but at least carry a small blanket to avoid their claws damaging your groundsheet.