Waterproof Membranes

Membranes keep snow and rain out while letting sweat vapour escape.

Membranes (such as those used in GORE-TEX) are designed to block liquid water from snow, sleet, and rain while allowing moisture vapour from sweat to pass through. That balance matters on the mountain: you want protection in storms, but you also need to manage heat build-up when you're skiing hard or hiking for turns.

Why it matters for skiing & snowboarding: If a jacket can’t breathe, moisture from your body builds up inside. That can leave you damp and cold when you stop, especially on chairlifts, in lift queues, or during breaks in low temperatures.

Two-Layer vs Three-Layer Construction

Layer count describes how the waterproof membrane is built into the fabric.

Two-layer jackets bond the membrane to the outer fabric and add a loose lining inside for comfort. They're a popular resort choice because they feel softer, offer reliable protection, and often come at a lower price.

Three-layer jackets sandwich the membrane between the outer fabric and an inner scrim, creating a tougher, more stable construction. They’re typically more durable and more consistent in harsh weather, making them a favourite for freeride, backcountry, and longer seasons of use.

Why it matters for skiing: Two-layer builds usually win on comfort and value. Three-layer builds win on durability, storm protection, and long-term performance — especially with packs, abrasion, and frequent use.

Hydrostatic Head (Waterproof Rating)

Hydrostatic head measures how waterproof a fabric is.

Measured in millimetres (mm), hydrostatic head indicates how much water pressure a fabric can withstand before leaking. For example, a 15,000mm rating means the fabric can resist the pressure of a 15-metre column of water.

For skiing: 10,000–15,000mm is usually plenty for resort days and typical snowfall. If you regularly ski in wet, heavy snow, changeable spring conditions, or harsher alpine weather, consider 20,000mm+ for extra confidence.

RET (Breathability Rating)

RET indicates how easily sweat vapour escapes through a jacket.

RET stands for Resistance to Evaporative Heat Transfer. Lower numbers mean better breathability. A low-RET jacket releases heat and moisture more efficiently, which is especially useful if you ski hard, tour, or splitboard.

For skiing & snowboarding: RET 0–6 is excellent for touring and high-intensity riding. 7–12 suits most resort skiing. Above 20 is best for slower-paced, colder conditions where heat retention matters more than moisture dumping.

Packability & Weight

Packability describes how easy a jacket is to carry when it's not being worn.

In the mountains, you may switch layers multiple times a day. A packable shell is easier to stash on climbs or warmer afternoons, while heavier jackets often add durability, features, and sometimes extra warmth for lift-served days.

General guide: For ski & snowboard shells, ~450–750g is common depending on fabric and features. Insulated jackets often sit ~700–1,000g+. Lighter options suit touring; heavier options suit frequent resort use and rougher conditions.

PFC-Free DWR

DWR helps snow and moisture bead and roll off the outer fabric.

DWR (Durable Water Repellent) stops the face fabric from soaking up water, helping the jacket stay lighter and breathe better in wet snow and sleet. Many brands now use PFC-free DWR, aiming to reduce environmental impact while maintaining reliable repellency.

Good to know: If your jacket "wets out", it often means the DWR needs cleaning and reproofing — not that the membrane has failed. Keeping DWR working helps comfort in wet snowfall and spring slush.

Why You Need to Wash and Reapply DWR

Waterproof jackets work best when the outer fabric sheds water and the membrane can breathe.

Modern waterproof jackets rely on two key components: a waterproof membrane (such as Gore-Tex®) and a Durable Water Repellent (DWR) finish on the outer fabric. Over time, friction, dirt, sweat, and body oils can reduce the DWR, leading to wetting out.

Washing removes residues that block breathability, and reapplying DWR restores water beading. This is particularly important with PFC/PFAS-free DWR, which is better for the environment but may need more frequent maintenance.

How to Wash and Reapply DWR

1. 1 Prepare your jacket
   Empty pockets and fasten zips, Velcro, and flaps to prevent damage. Check the care label for any brand-specific instructions.
2. 2 Wash with a technical cleaner
   Use a specialist tech wash (avoid standard detergents and fabric softeners). Wash on a gentle cycle with cool water, following the care label.
3. 3 Dry to reactivate the finish
   If the label allows, tumble dry on low heat — warmth helps reactivate DWR. If tumble drying isn't recommended, air dry thoroughly.
4. 4 Reapply DWR
   Use a spray-on or wash-in DWR treatment, following the product instructions. For spray-on, focus on high-wear areas (shoulders, cuffs, hood). Set the treatment with low tumble-dryer heat or a warm iron (use a cloth barrier) if permitted.