BEST WATERPROOF JACKETS FOR:

TREKITT’S TOP PICKS: BEST CLIMBING WATERPROOF JACKETS FOR WOMEN

TREKITT’S TOP PICKS: BEST CLIMBING WATERPROOF JACKETS FOR MEN

TERMS GUIDE FOR CLIMBING WATERPROOF JACKETS

Membranes: Protecting Against Rain While Staying Breathable

When climbing, a quality waterproof jacket isn’t just another layer—it’s your shield against the elements and an essential partner for a successful mount. The best climbing jackets, often made with advanced membranes like GORE-TEX or Pertex, work hard to keep rain, snow, and wind at bay while allowing sweat to escape. This breathability is key when pushing through demanding routes and generating plenty of heat.
Without proper ventilation, things can get uncomfortable fast—your jacket turns into a sauna, leaving you damp and chilled once you pause for a break. And at altitude, that’s not just unpleasant—it can be risky. An excellent climbing jacket strikes the perfect balance, protecting you from the weather and dry from your effort.

Two-layer and three-layer membranes

When picking out a climbing jacket, you’ll probably encounter terms like “2-layer” and “3-layer” construction. Knowing the difference might sound technical, but it can help you choose the right gear for your climbs.
A two-layer jacket pairs a waterproof membrane with an outer fabric and adds a loose lining on the inside. It’s lightweight, comfortable, and does a great job keeping you dry. It’s a solid option for less intense climbs or something easy to pack and carry.
On the other hand, 3-layer jackets are built for more demanding adventures. They sandwich the waterproof membrane between a tough outer layer and a smooth inner layer, giving you better durability and breathability. These jackets shine on longer climbs, technical routes, or when the weather can turn on a dime. Sure, they’re pricier, but if you’re tackling rugged conditions, the extra performance and reliability are worth it.

Hydrostatic Head: Understanding Waterproof Ratings for CLIMBERS

When looking at climbing jackets, you’ll probably notice something called the hydrostatic head rating. It might sound a bit technical, but it’s just a way to measure how waterproof a jacket really is. The rating is in millimetres (mm) and tells you how much water pressure the fabric can handle before leaks. For instance, a jacket with a 20,000 mm rating can resist the pressure of a 20,000 mm column of water without letting any through.
For most climbing trips, a rating between 15,000 mm and 20,000 mm is plenty to handle rain, snow, and windy conditions. But if you’re heading into high-altitude climbs or places where the weather can go from bad to worse in a flash, you’ll want a jacket with a 20,000 mm rating or higher. It’ll give you extra protection to keep you dry, even during heavy storms or long stretches of wet weather.

RET (Breathability Rating): Managing Moisture

Regarding climbing jackets, you might hear about something called RET, or Resistance to Evaporative Heat Transfer. Don’t let the technical name throw you—it’s just a way to measure how breathable a jacket is. And when you’re climbing hard or on long routes, breathability is a big deal.
Here’s the gist: the lower the RET number, the better the jacket lets sweat escape. A rating between 0 and 6 is top-notch and perfect for high-energy activities like technical climbs. Ratings between 7 and 12 still offer good breathability, which works well for general mountaineering. But if the RET is above 20, the jacket’s less breathable and better suited for slower-paced adventures or cold conditions where keeping warm takes priority.
Breathability matters because your body generates heat and moisture while working hard. If your jacket traps all that, you’ll end up damp and uncomfortable, leading to overheating while climbing or getting chilled during breaks. Picking a jacket with a low RET rating means staying dry, comfortable, and ready to focus on the next pitch—no matter what the mountain throws your way.

Packability: Keeping Weight Down for CLIMBERS

When you’re gearing up for a climb, every gram in your pack matters. That’s why a lightweight, packable, waterproof jacket is a must-have. It’s easy to stash away and doesn’t weigh you down, making it a lifesaver when the weather suddenly shifts to rain, snow, or biting wind.
But here’s the thing: weight and durability often go hand in hand. Ultralight jackets are amazing for fast-and-light missions, but they might not hold up as well against rough rock, ice, or extreme conditions. If you’re planning a technical climb or expecting harsher weather, a slightly heavier, more durable jacket could be the better call.
For climbing, a good waterproof jacket usually weighs between 300 and 500 grams (10.5 to 17.5 ounces). The lighter ones are perfect for speed-focused alpine routes, while those closer to 500 grams give you extra durability and features—like reinforced areas and helmet-compatible hoods—without sacrificing packability. Picking the right balance depends on your route, the conditions, and whether you’re prioritising speed or rugged protection.

PFC-Free DWR: Water Repellency

Most climbing jackets have a DWR (Durable Water Repellent) coating, which helps water bead up and roll off the surface instead of soaking into the fabric. This coating is key to keeping your jacket breathable and lightweight, even in wet or snowy conditions. The outer fabric can get saturated without it, making the jacket heavier and less effective at keeping you dry.
In the past, DWR coatings often contained PFCs (perfluorinated compounds), which aren’t great for the environment. Luckily, many brands now use PFC-free DWR, offering the same level of water resistance without the environmental impact. It’s a win for performance and sustainability, so you can choose gear that keeps you dry and aligns with your values.
Remember that DWR coatings don’t last forever—they can wear off with regular use, dirt, or washing. The good news? Reapplying a DWR treatment is easy and ensures your jacket stays at its best. A little maintenance goes a long way, helping your jacket protect you through every climb, no matter the conditions.

FEATURES TO LOOK FOR IN A CLIMBING WATERPROOF JACKET

Durable Face Fabrics

Climbing jackets must handle constant contact with rough surfaces like rock faces, abrasive ropes, and sharp ice. Look for materials reinforced in high-wear areas, such as the shoulders, elbows, and forearms. Ripstop weaves or abrasion-resistant overlays are excellent features that boost durability, ensuring the jacket withstands the rigours of challenging routes. A durable jacket is an essential piece of gear for both safety and longevity during your climbs.

Helmet-Compatible Hood

A climbing jacket without a helmet-compatible hood is a dealbreaker. The hood should fit snugly over a climbing helmet without restricting your field of vision or movement. Look for adjustable hoods with stiffened or laminated brims to stay put in windy conditions. Multiple adjustment points ensure a secure fit, whether you’re wearing a helmet or not.

Harness-Compatible Design

Climbing jackets need to accommodate harnesses seamlessly. High-set hand pockets and two-way front zippers ensure you can access essentials like maps or snacks without interfering with your harness or rope systems. Jackets with streamlined, harness-friendly silhouettes reduce bulk and allow unrestricted movement on technical ascents. Look for zippers that are easy to operate with gloved hands, as this can save time and hassle during cold-weather climbs. Additionally, reinforced areas around the hips and waist help prevent wear from harness friction, ensuring your jacket stays durable over multiple trips. A harness-compatible design enhances functionality and keeps your gear organised and accessible when you need it most.

Articulated Fit for Mobility

Climbing requires unrestricted movement for reaching, stretching, and scrambling. Jackets with articulated sleeves, gusseted underarms, and ergonomic tailoring allow you to climb without feeling restricted. A design that moves with your body ensures you stay focused on the route, not fighting against your gear. Look for stretchy materials or strategically placed panels that enhance flexibility without compromising durability. Features like pre-shaped elbows or an athletic fit further improve mobility, making the jacket feel like an extension of your movements. This freedom of motion is especially critical during technical routes where precision and comfort are key to maintaining efficiency and safety.

Ventilation Features

Even breathable membranes can benefit from additional ventilation during strenuous climbs. Look for pit zips, mesh-lined pockets, or strategically placed vents to dump excess heat quickly. These features help maintain comfort when pushing hard on a route or tackling steep sections. Ventilation features are handy during high-output activities or in warmer conditions, where sweat can build up rapidly. Adjustable vents also control airflow, allowing you to fine-tune your temperature regulation without removing layers. By quickly releasing excess heat, these features help prevent overheating and keep you dry, which is crucial for staying focused and comfortable throughout your climb.

RECCO Safety Reflectors

For those climbing in remote or alpine areas, RECCO reflectors offer an added layer of safety. These small, lightweight reflectors can help search-and-rescue teams locate you in an emergency. While not a substitute for an avalanche transceiver, RECCO provides valuable peace of mind in snowy or isolated environments.

Storm-Ready Features

For climbs in snowy or wet conditions, consider jackets with storm-specific features like wrist gaiters and adjustable hem cinches. These keep out snow and wind, ensuring you stay dry and warm. Some jackets include powder skirts or drop tails for additional protection in alpine or mixed climbing scenarios.

Weatherproof Pockets

Climbing-specific jackets feature pockets that are accessible while wearing a harness or backpack. Look for weatherproof zippers and storm flaps to protect contents from rain or snow. Interior pockets that hold wet gear or electronics are also a practical touch, keeping small essentials secure and dry. Some jackets even include mesh-lined interior pockets that double as vents, providing added breathability when things heat up. Strategically placed chest or shoulder pockets are perfect for stashing maps, snacks, or gloves, ensuring you can grab what you need without disrupting your climb.

How to Care for a Waterproof Jacket For CLIMBING:
Washing and Reapplying DWR

Proper care for your waterproof jacket is essential to maintaining its performance, extending its lifespan, and ensuring it stays effective against the elements. Here’s a guide on why this is important and how to do it right.

Why You Need to Wash and Reapply DWR

Modern waterproof jackets rely on two key components: a waterproof membrane (such as Gore-Tex®) and a Durable Water Repellent (DWR) coating on the outer fabric. Over time, the DWR layer can wear off due to friction, dirt, and oils, leading to a phenomenon called “wetting out.”

When a jacket wets out:

• Water no longer beads off the surface and instead soaks into the fabric.
  
• While the waterproof membrane prevents water from penetrating, the soaked fabric can feel heavy, and moisture from sweat or condensation
  may accumulate inside, reducing comfort.
  
• This is often mistaken for a faulty jacket, but it needs proper cleaning and re-treatment.

By washing your jacket and reapplying DWR, you reactivate its water-shedding capabilities, ensuring it performs as intended. Regular care is particularly important for modern waterproofs using PFC/PFAS-free DWR, as these environmentally-conscious formulas may require more frequent maintenance.

How to Wash and Reapply DWR

1. Prepare Your Jacket
   
   • Empty all pockets and fasten zips, Velcro, and flaps to prevent damage during washing.
   • Check the care label for any specific instructions.
     
2. Wash with a Technical Cleaner
   • Use a specialised tech wash (avoid standard detergents, as they can leave a residue that reduces performance).
   • Wash on a gentle cycle with cool water, as per the care label.
     
3. Dry Your Jacket
   • After washing, tumble dry on low heat if the care label permits. The heat helps reactivate the DWR to some extent. If tumble drying isn’t recommended, air dry thoroughly.
     
4. Reapply DWR
   • Use a spray-on or wash-in DWR treatment, following the product instructions.
   • For spray-on products, focus on high-wear areas like shoulders, cuffs, and the hood.
   • Once applied, use low heat in a tumble dryer or iron in a warm setting (with a cloth between the iron and jacket) to set the treatment.

Why Early and Regular Care Matters

We recommend washing and reapplying DWR to any new waterproof jacket right from the start. This habit ensures the fabric is clean and the water-repellent finish is at its best, helping you achieve peak performance from day one. Periodic maintenance prevents wetting out, improves comfort, and prolongs the life of your jacket.
Caring for your jacket also supports responsible outdoor practices by reducing the need for replacements and ensuring your gear remains eco-conscious.

BEST WATERPROOF JACKETS FOR CLIMBING – FAQ

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